Finns are stereotypically described as painfully shy, not wanting to be noticed and not noticing others (it’s very clear to me we’re just pretending). There's an old joke about the Finns told by the famed ex-conductor of LA Philharmonics, Esa-Pekka Salonen. What's the difference between an introverted Finn and an extroverted one? When the introvert is talking to you, he looks at his shoes. When the extrovert is talking to you, he looks at your shoes. So, trying to act culturally correct, I did NOT stare or make any remarks when I saw a woman carrying a beautiful, small Christmas tree last Thursday, on the trail behind my house. In fact, I had already mentally marked mine among many, perfect spruce trees on the side of the trail and made plans to sneak out at night right before Christmas to cut one down. But this was a little early – actually a lot early. But by now having been brilliantly acculturated, I just kept walking, not batting an eye. Instead, I admired the Tuulipukus everyone was wearing. Tuulipuku literally translates to ‘a wind suit’, and 95 % of the people marching or running on the trail are wearing one, consisting of a windbreaker and a pair of matching pants. Older couples march in exactly matching ones, younger ones in complementary colors. Most people walk by fast with the help of the swiftly swinging walking poles, the tuulipukus making rustling sounds with the action. So far, I’ve been a rebel, marching in old jeans and an anorak with no poles (I left mine in Berkeley).

On my evening walk yesterday, I saw lots of small fir trees piled up on the side of the trail. Hmmmm  . . . that’s where the early-Christmas woman had gotten hers, I concluded. I couldn’t resist picking one myself. I chose a most beautiful, tall, skinny tree and started marching home with it. The tuulipuku folks pretended not to notice, but the their glances back told me otherwise.  Not far from my house, I spotted a very old couple, walking slowly with the help of their poles. Neither of them was wearing a tuulipuku, so I immediately felt a kinship and said hello. The man right away remarked on the Christmas tree. I explained that it had been calling me, and I had decided to put it in my balcony. He agreed that it was a great idea and that any nature was beautiful. His wife continued that they take a walk every day. Both of them spoke in a very strong Karelian accent. I right away understood their friendliness. We, ‘typical’ Finns consider the people who used to live in the area lost to the Soviets after WW II and who were then relocated around the country more Slavic in their temperament. Their dialect even cuts long Finnish words much shorter as if they just don’t have the patience for slowing effect of the multiple syllables.  I ended up walking with the couple, very slowly - but talking very fast. They must have been close to 80. When I came to the shortcut leading home, I said my good byes and went in to stick the Christmas tree in a bucket full of water in my balcony. It looks perfect!

Yesterday, I bought a pair of tuulipuku pants on sale – black and very non-conspicuous - but I’m getting there!